Traveling

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Though, I don’t care to live there again – snow, traffic, sprawl, and housing prices, returning to Denver is always a treat for me.  I love roaming around, looking for the new, and finding myself happy to see places that have not changed.  Look, there’s the Wonder Bread factory!  I can see the School of Mines “M!”  Oh my goodness, there’s the castle!  All of it brings back a flood of welcome memories and new ideas about the place that was once home.  

This is Paris on the Platte, my absolute favorite coffee shop in Denver.  I first went with friends on my sixteenth birthday – what a joyous discovery.  I spent many a late night – chatting, laughing, playing cards.  There are some changes, but it’s heart remains the same – the checkerboard ceiling, the useless smokeeter, bread boards piled with savory goodness.   I am sipping a regular-old iced coffee here, but back in those early days, it was a Cafe Jacques with cinnamon and a slice of orange on top (no longer on the menu), with an occasional clove cigarette on the side.  I will say, no matter the drink, the company’s always been divine.

 

 

Back when the Wynkoop was one of the few “civilized” outposts in lower downtown (LoDo), I loved wandering the abandoned streets, particularly when I came upon Union Station and beautifully tiled buildings like these.  They don’t make ’em like this anymore!

In college, The Market was my favorite hangout.  I could cross Auraria Parkway, and mosey down Larimer to grab a slice of quiche, a sweet, and an occasional coffee.  It really looks exactly the same.  The striped awning, the faded sign, the old-fashioned cases filled with cakes and deli selections, right down to the bright young faces behind the counters.  I’ll bet some of them are just as surly, too!

 

Sunset over the Flatirons.  In our restless teenage years, my friend Dionne and I used to drive this road in her Dodge Colt, at this very time of day.  We’d listen to KBCO on the AM dial, the signal fading with the light.  When it went silent, the sound of our voices and the soft rumble of the engine filled the air in the most pleasant fashion. 

Memories – all of them good.

I believe one of the greatest privileges I have been given as a consumer is to meet with the people who have made or grown what I am purchasing.  I love talking with tradespeople of all kinds: farmers, designers, painters, potters, and jewelers.  They all have such interesting lives and passions, and it is a pleasure to share a moment with them, speaking earnestly about what it is they do.  It gives the purchase a certain weight and reverence.

I feel particularly lucky to have met with the artisans responsible for the creation of jewelry and pottery purchased on our trip.  This is Marie Moquino, of the Santo Domingo Pueblo.  She and her husband Tom, set out their wares at Ojo Caliente.  I bought the bracelet she is stringing in the photo and a beautiful gaspeite and onyx necklace.  I asked her if I could take a picture of her working, and thankfully, she agreed.  We learned that she and her husband have lived in New Mexico, as she says, “For life.”  Kind and peaceful, we talked about their travels to various Pow-Wows around the west, relatives in Oregon, and the fact that they’ve been married for forty-nine years.  I hope to make this milestone with the joy they possessed.

We also got lucky and ran into the man responsible for making the summer owl we purchased on our last visit, and then bought its counterpart, the winter owl.  He explained that there are only two owls, despite there being four seasons.  This is representative of his people and the union of opposites.  What is even more interesting is that we bought the summer owl on the opposite side of the plaza – talk about balance and union!

Here is some of the adobe architecture I love so much, but please don’t ask me why.  I really can’t say.  I just like it.  This and the above photo are the Church of San Felipe in Albuquerque.  This building was constructed in 1793 and is still going strong.  I wonder how long our little house will last?

Finally, the return to Denver.  This was my eastern view of New Mexico.  Goodbye gorgeous!

Gregory and I are on the road now, on higway 285, north of Santa Fe.  You’ll find this lovely rock formation just outside of Ojo Caliente, a neat little resort and spa that is the only place in the world with four different mineral springs bubbling to the surface: iron, lithia, arsenic, and soda.  We first went over twelve years ago and liked it so much that no visit to New Mexico is complete without a stop here.  We relax, soak, slather ourselves in mud, bake in the sun, and feel ever so grateful to be alive.

Like the rest of New Mexico, it is a magical place that is rich in history.  The springs and spa are situated between a beautiful mesa and the Ojo Caliente River.  The Tewa Indians lived in the Posi-Ouinge Pueblo on the mesa just above the springs over five hundred years ago, taking in the waters and living quite well.  Everything changed with the arrival of the Spanish, but there are still traces of their life.  Gregory is holding a piece of pottery left by them (don’t worry, he put it back – we’re not those kind of travelers).  Seeing all of the shards lying around really makes me understand why archaeologists get jazzed by their work.  By holding this pottery in my hand, I am making a connection to someone who lived hundreds of years ago!  Though it is awfully exciting, we can’t stop here.  There’s so much more to see.

After walking for a bit, we come to the edge and see this gorgeous view of the small river valley.  I get giddy at the color combination.  The springs are to the left of the photo.

 

While out walking, we found another reason to feel giddy.  Despite the dry climate, the mesa is teeming with life!  There are scores of birds, rodents, snakes, lizards, coyotes, bunnies, and insects.  It is impossible to walk here without being inspired by all of these marvelous creatures.  This is one of many, many lizards that we saw out on our walk.

Unfortunately we didn’t see as many of these cute little bunnies, which is probably good, actually, because there were many birds of prey out looking for them.  Not to mention tourists, Gregory creeped closer and closer, wondering how close he could get, but that bunny said, no, no, no, and hopped away.

Looking northwest on the mesa.  I know I am a broken record, but isn’t it beautiful?

 

How fortuitous!  This is the first time we’ve seen the cactus in bloom while we were here.  I was absolutely amazed at all the color, especially the pink.  Isn’t it lovely?  To top it off, we saw hummingbirds drinking the cactus nectar, too.  To me, these are some of the best reminders of the true wonders of creation.  Even in the driest place, there is abundant life and beauty.  Gosh, I’m getting all weepy thinking how lucky I am to be a part of it, no matter where I am!

We’re at the end of the trail, taking respite under the ramada to enjoy all we’ve seen and experienced here.  Thank you Ojo Caliente!

I have always loved New Mexico, great wondrous place that it is.  Due to it’s close proximity to Denver and family connections, it was a frequent vacation destination for my family.  It was also the destination of my first vacation with Gregory, before we were married, so it is quite the special place.  My Grandpa and Mom were both born there, and my Nana lived there until her death in 1988.  Nana lived in a great old adobe house near Old Town Albuquerque with hollyhocks growing in the yard.  She was a woman with a large presence, though I cannot recall if she was actually large. 

She sat in a chair in the front room, receiving guests like a queen, her oxygen tube protruding from her nose and snaking about the living room.  One time, my dad stepped on the tube while we were there, and she told him, rather non-chalantly, considering he’d just cut off her air, “Jim, you’re stepping on my snake.”   I looked around in terror, ready to run from this horrible creature that somehow sneaked into her home, before she laughed, and I realized it wasn’t really a snake.  It was just Nana, being herself.   It was this kind of behavior that both frightened me and delighted me. 

On another occasion, when I was visiting with my grandparents and my cousin, Stephanie, I was cheerfully playing in the living room while she was holding court with my grandparents.  She suddenly asked me why I wasn’t playing outside.  I looked out the window and noticed it had started to rain, one of those great afternoon storms, and said as much.  She proceeded to call me a pansy (one of her favorite flowers) and tell me that a little water wouldn’t hurt me.  Perhaps cut from the came cloth as she, I stuck to my guns and stayed inside.  Now, on occasions where the rain is warm like that day, I go outside, arms wide, and spin, raindrops falling on my cheeks and tongue, and say, “Hello Nana!”  

The whole of New Mexico is like my Nana for me, really, frightening and utterly delightful.  Frightening for the stormy weather, enormous clouds building and exploding with thunder, lightening, and giant raindrops that make me and the dusty earth quiver and dance.  Frightening for the hot sun that puckers my skin and dries the landscape.  Frightening for the wild animals, howling at night, or slithering along paths, looking for carrion, looking for me. 

Yet all that frightens me, delights me, too.   I love the giant thunderheads just before they break, the scent of ozone after an electrical storm, the moisture lying delicately on top of that dusty ground, soon to be only a memory.  I love the way that same hot sun browns my skin, lightens my hair, and my mood.  I love the adobe houses that dot the sun-baked hills, redolent with the scent of pinon and juniper, next to the brilliant blue of the sky.  I love watching the birds and rabbits dance with wild pleasure, searching for their next meal.  I love it all.

Goodness me!  All this and I haven’t even talked about the people or the food, both are wonderful.  I have found New Mexicans to be very open, deeply spiritual, and an extremely kind.  These pleasant attributes translate very well in the kitchen.  When we are in New Mexico, Gregory and I gorge on the local food, sometimes eating it for breakfast, lunch, and dinner.  We simply cannot get enough of the flavors: posole, beans, green chile, chile rellenos, tamales, enchiladas, burritos, sopapillias, oh my!  There are no two ways about it, this food is heaven on a plate.

The pictures, by the way are the Church of San Francisco, near the Plaza, in Santa Fe.  San Francisco is the patron saint of animals, birds, and the environment.   Legend has it that St. Francis, on his deathbed, thanked his donkey for carrying and helping him throughout his life, and his donkey wept.

The church is a beautiful place to take respite from shopping and wandering Santa Fe.  In particular, I enjoy walking the labyrinth in the courtyard.  There’s that sky I talked about, too.  No pictures of the food, though.  We gobbled it up!

Siesta

 

Hola amigos!

We will be taking a siesta, though I doubt with the vigor the Little Man is displaying here – such a good sleeper.  So, don’t expect too much posting for the next few weeks.

Vaya con Dios…

CoCo y Gregorio

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